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Reseller guide

Vintage clothing grading explained

How vintage clothing is graded in the trade — Grade A, B, C and rag — what each means, how grading differs between sorters and resellers, and how we grade source fabric for reworks.

What do the grades mean?

Grade A: clean, structurally sound, ready to sell as-is, natural fade only. Grade B: honest wear or small flaws — a mark, a small repair, pile loss on a collar — sellable with disclosure or ideal for rework. Grade C: significant damage, sold for rework material or parts. Rag: not wearable, sold by weight for fibre recycling.

Is grading consistent across the trade?

No. Every sorter and wholesaler grades slightly differently, and 'Grade A' from a bale sorter is not the same as Grade A from a curated vintage dealer. Always ask for the supplier's definitions and for photos — the photo is the grade.

How does age affect grading?

It does not, directly. A 1980s jacket with a perfect fade and no damage is Grade A; a 2005 jacket with a torn lining is Grade B. Grading is about condition; dating is about labels and hardware. Both go in the listing.

How do you grade source fabric for reworks?

We grade the fabric, not the garment, because the garment is about to be remade. Grade A source canvas becomes the body of a piece; Grade B source becomes panels, pockets and visible repairs; Grade C becomes raw material. Every finished rework is sound; the grade tells you the character of the fabric.

What should a listing say about grade?

The grade plus the specifics: 'Slightly worn source — light pile loss on collar, small repair inside left cuff'. A grade without specifics is marketing; specifics without a grade are hard to compare.

Why does honest grading matter for resellers?

Because repeat buyers are the business. Over-grading wins one sale and loses the customer; honest grading with photos wins the second order and the referral. It also cuts returns, which protect margin.

We grade 97 pieces by these rules

Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.

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