How do you decide the crop length?
Measure from the base of the collar at the back to where you want the hem — usually the hip bone or just above it. Mark it on the jacket with the lining in place and check it on a body or form before cutting. Common targets are 23 to 25 inches on a men's medium Detroit. Cut once; you cannot add fabric back.
How is a Detroit cropped?
The lining is detached from the hem, the shell is cut to the new length plus hem allowance, the lining is trimmed to match, and the two are re-joined with the hem folded and stitched in heavy thread to match the original stitch density. Pocket positions are checked first so the crop does not land across a pocket.
How is an Active Jac cropped?
The rib-knit waistband is unpicked and set aside, the body is cut to length, and the original waistband is re-attached so the jacket keeps its elasticated hem. If the rib is worn out it is replaced with matching heavy rib knit. The quilted lining is trimmed and re-caught at the same seam.
What are the common mistakes?
Cutting too short, so the jacket rides up and exposes the midriff on every reach. Leaving the lining long so it shows below the shell. Using a light thread or a domestic machine, which cannot sew through duck, lining and hem allowance. Cutting through a pocket. Ignoring that the fade will be darker at the new edge.
Can I crop one myself?
A simple shell-only hem on an unlined jacket is possible with a heavy-duty machine and patience. Lined jackets and rib-waistband Active Jacs are a studio job — the construction is layered and the margin for error is small.
Can you crop a jacket to my length?
Yes. Tell us the body length you want when you order, or send a measurement from a jacket you like, and we will cut to it — with one check back if the fabric or pocket placement makes your number unwise.
We grade 97 pieces by these rules
Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.