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Behind the seams

How we rework vintage Carhartt, step by step

From sourcing bales in Pakistan to the finished one-of-one piece: how we grade, cut, rebuild and photograph every reworked Carhartt jacket and pant.

Where does the Carhartt come from?

Used clothing from North America and Europe is exported in bulk bales and sorted in Pakistan, which is one of the world's largest hubs for the trade. We buy at the bale and hand-pick Carhartt out of it before it reaches resale channels abroad. That is why we can offer pieces at the prices we do — the garment has changed hands once, not four times.

How do you grade a piece before reworking it?

We look at the fabric first, not the garment. Is the duck canvas heavy and structurally sound? Is the fade even or beautifully uneven? Are there holes, stains or rot that cannot be worked around? Grade A fabric becomes the body of a piece; Grade B fabric, with honest wear, becomes panels, pockets or visible repairs. Nothing with hidden damage goes into a finished piece.

What actually happens on the table?

The garment is unpicked along its original seams so the panels come apart cleanly. We decide the new cut — usually a cropped length, a re-set hem, sometimes a panel swap between two garments of different fade. Panels are re-cut, pinned and sewn on industrial machines with heavy thread to match the original stitch density. Collars, cuffs and waistbands are re-attached or rebuilt.

Do you keep the original labels?

Yes. The chest patch, neck label and care label stay on the garment wherever the cut allows. That is what tells the next owner what the piece was, and it is how you can still date it by the label. We never add labels that were not there.

How long does one piece take?

A simple crop and re-hem on a jacket is an hour or two of skilled work. A panel rebuild or a pair of pants with re-set knees can take most of a day. That is why every piece is a one-off — it would make no sense to do this work and then make ten of the same thing.

How do you photograph and describe each piece?

Every finished piece is laid flat and photographed from the front, back and in detail, then filmed so you can see how the fabric moves. The listing states the source fabric condition, the colour, and flat measurements on request. What you see in the photos is the exact piece that ships.

Can I request a specific rework?

Yes, within reason. If you want a particular jacket cropped to a certain length, or a pair of pants tapered, message us before you buy and we will tell you whether the fabric allows it. For wholesale buyers we can hold a standing brief — a monthly run of cropped jackets in a given colour mix, for example.

Every piece we sell is reworked by these standards

Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.

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