Why taper a double knee?
Because the original leg opening was cut to go over work boots — often 9 inches or more across — and on a modern outfit that reads very wide. A taper from the knee down narrows the opening while keeping the roomy seat and thigh that make the pant comfortable.
How much should be taken in?
Usually one to two inches off the total leg opening — from, say, 18 inches around to 16. Enough to clean up the line, not enough to make it a slim pant, which fights the heavy fabric. The taper starts just below the double knee panel so the panel is untouched.
Which seam is used?
The inseam, so the outseam with its utility pockets and hammer loop stays original. On the double-knee panel's open bottom edge, the taper is blended in so the panel still hangs straight.
How is the hem handled?
Most tapers come with a re-hem to a cropped length — ankle or just above. The original hem is unpicked, the leg cut to length, and a new hem stitched in heavy thread. A raw-edge finish on duck is popular and frays cleanly.
What about the knee panels?
Left alone. They are the identity of the pant and tapering below them keeps the two-layer look intact. If a knee panel is blown out we replace it with a panel from another pair, often in a contrasting fade.
Can you taper to my measurements?
Yes. Send your preferred leg opening and inseam, or the measurements of a pant that fits, and we cut to them. We will tell you if the taper you ask for is too aggressive for the fabric.
We grade 97 pieces by these rules
Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.