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Care guide

How to repair vintage Carhartt

Practical repair guide for vintage Carhartt: fixing torn duck canvas, replacing blanket lining, re-hemming, fixing zips and when to leave visible repair showing.

Can torn duck canvas be repaired?

Yes, and well. Duck canvas is dense enough to take a patch from behind without the repair showing through. For small tears, a backing patch of matching canvas and dense zigzag or straight stitching on an industrial machine holds for years. For larger holes, a visible patch from a second garment in a contrasting fade is the classic reworked look.

How do you fix a torn blanket lining?

Blanket linings in Detroits and chore coats are stitched through to the shell, so a tear is patched in place with wool-blend fabric, or the whole lining panel is replaced if the damage is widespread. We sometimes remove a destroyed lining entirely and rebuild a jacket as an unlined shell, which is lighter and suits warmer markets.

Can a stretched or torn rib cuff be replaced?

Yes. Rib-knit cuffs and waistbands on Active Jacs are a wear point and are replaced with new heavy rib knit in a matching colour. Done properly the new rib is sewn with the same seam allowance as the original and sits identically.

How do you re-hem a jacket or pant?

Unpick the original hem, cut to the new length, fold and stitch with heavy thread to match the original stitch density. On jackets the hem often carries the waistband or lining edge, so the lining is shortened to match. We keep the exposed darker edge of the fabric where it suits the piece.

What about a broken zip?

Vintage Carhartt zips are usually brass — Talon or Scovill on older pieces, YKK later. A broken slider can often be replaced on the original zip tape. If the teeth are damaged the whole zip is replaced with a heavy brass zip to match. We prefer to keep the original zip wherever it still runs.

Should repairs be hidden or visible?

Both are valid. A hidden repair keeps a piece looking original and suits a clean Grade-A garment. A visible repair — a contrasting knee patch, a sashiko-style stitched panel — is part of the language of reworked clothing and tells the story of the garment. We decide piece by piece and describe the repairs in each listing.

Can I repair vintage Carhartt myself?

Small jobs, yes: hand-stitching a loose button, patching a small hole from behind with iron-on canvas and a few stitches. Anything involving the lining, rib knit, zips or re-hemming needs a heavy-duty machine and matching thread. Duck canvas is thick — a domestic machine will struggle with the seams.

Every piece we sell is reworked by these standards

Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.

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