What is the difference in the weave?
Duck is a plain weave — threads go over one, under one — in heavy cotton, which makes a dense, smooth, stiff canvas. Denim is a twill weave with a diagonal line, traditionally with an indigo warp and white weft, which gives the blue face and white inside. Duck is dyed through; denim fades from blue towards white.
Which is heavier?
Carhartt duck at around 12 oz is comparable to heavy denim, but it feels stiffer and denser because of the plain weave. Carhartt's denim pieces — carpenter jeans and shorts — are typically heavyweight too but softer in hand.
How do they fade differently?
Duck fades in warm tones — brown to tan, black to charcoal — concentrated at seams and creases. Denim fades from indigo to lighter blue with whiskering at the hips and honeycombs behind the knees. Duck fade reads as workwear; denim fade reads as jeans.
Which is more comfortable?
Denim from the start; duck after breaking in. Firm duck is stiff for weeks or months. Sandstone duck and any well-worn vintage duck are soft. For an everyday trouser, denim is easier; for a jacket, duck is the whole point.
Which Carhartt pieces came in denim?
Carpenter jeans and shorts, double knee jeans in some eras, and some denim jackets. The core jackets — Detroit, Active Jac, chore coat — are duck. Most vintage Carhartt on the market is duck.
Which should I buy?
Duck for jackets and for the distinctive workwear look in pants. Denim if you want Carhartt's pocket layout and heritage in a fabric that behaves like your jeans. Many buyers end up with duck on top and denim below.
We grade 97 pieces by these rules
Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.