How to photograph vintage clothing that sells

What setup do I need?

A plain background, natural light and a phone. A warm, neutral floor or a sheet of paper in cream or grey works for duck canvas. Shoot from directly above with the garment laid flat and smoothed, buttons or zip closed, sleeves slightly out. No filters, no heavy editing — buyers want the real colour.

Which shots does every listing need?

Flat front, flat back, chest patch close-up, neck and care label, hardware, lining, and every flaw. Seven to nine photos. The label and flaw shots are what build trust and cut returns — do not skip them to make the piece look better.

How do I get the colour right?

Daylight, not overhead bulbs, and the same spot every time so your whole shop reads consistently. Shoot a white card in the first frame to check white balance. Faded Carhartt brown photographs anywhere from orange to grey under bad light; daylight gets it right.

Should I shoot on a model?

If you can, one on-body shot sells fit better than any measurement. For volume, flat lays are faster and more consistent, and buyers of vintage are used to them. Our own listings use flat lays plus video.

Why video?

A short clip of the fabric moving — a hand running over the duck, the jacket lifted and set down — shows weight, drape and fade in a way stills cannot. Platforms increasingly favour video in feeds. Ten seconds is plenty.

What should I avoid?

Mannequins that distort the shoulders, hangers that stretch the neck, busy backgrounds, mirror selfies for product shots, and cropping out flaws. The listing that shows the flaw and prices for it sells; the one that hides it comes back.