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Care guide

How to break in Carhartt duck canvas

How to soften stiff Carhartt firm duck: washing, wearing, folding and what not to do — and why vintage and reworked duck is already broken in.

Why is Carhartt duck so stiff?

Firm duck is unwashed cotton canvas with sizing left in from finishing, woven densely enough to stand on its own. The stiffness is what makes it windproof and hard-wearing, and it is designed to relax with use. Sandstone duck is pre-washed and skips most of the break-in.

What is the fastest safe way to break it in?

Wear it. Movement at the elbows, shoulders and knees is what creases and softens the fabric where it needs to give. Supplement with a few cold washes and air drying. Three to six months of regular wear gets a firm duck jacket to comfortable; a year gets it to good.

Does washing help?

Yes, each cold wash removes some sizing and relaxes the weave. Avoid hot water and tumble drying, which shrink and stiffen the canvas rather than soften it, and avoid fabric softener, which coats the fibres and dulls the fade.

Any tricks to speed it up?

Fold and roll the jacket tightly, sleeve by sleeve, and leave it overnight; repeat a few times. Wear it damp after a wash so it dries to your shape. Some people wet the elbows and knees and work them by hand. Avoid anything abrasive — sandpaper and bleach damage fibres rather than softening them.

Will the fade come with break-in?

Slowly. Fade is dye loss, break-in is fibre relaxation; they happen together but at different speeds. A jacket is usually soft long before it has a visible fade, which is why genuinely faded vintage is prized.

Is reworked vintage already broken in?

Yes. Every piece we sell started as a garment worn for years, so the canvas is already soft and faded. The new seams we sew are in heavy thread on softened fabric, so there is no stiff phase at all.

We grade 97 pieces by these rules

Everything written here comes from grading and reworking Carhartt every day. Browse what's in now, or message us and we'll send photos and measurements of anything.

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